All posts by mrfitzer

Build a 4 terabyte raid 5 nas for under $400!!!!

Here’s a quick and practical project completed across three days. I spent the majority of my time researching and ordering hardware.

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Build a 4 what with a huu……. Ok – if you don’t speak geek it translates to “build your own secure file storage system for under $400” A comparable ready made box that does the same thing costs between $1000 – $1800. Cool, thrifty and green because it allows you to use a old pc that would have been destined for a landfill.

Storage is always an issue with a photography business and a passion for media. I’ve been reading about freenas a freebsd based operating system that can give that old pc sitting in the corner new life as a nas (network attached storage) it’s basically a computer that runs headless (no monitor or keyboard/mouse attached) and when connected to your home network gives you a boatload of safe data storage. The system uses software raid 5 (redundant array of independent disks) that saves data across 4 drives so if one fails the other three can rebuild it’s contents. No lost files if a hard drive crashes!

Construction was strait forward. I disassembled an old pc that had been sitting in the attic since we had moved in 4 years ago. After a bit of dusting I moved the motherboard to a new case, insalled case fans, nic, dvd-rom and the cf card as the primary hard drive. I booted freenas from the dvd-rom and transferred it to the cf “hard drive”. The next step was to install the sata controller and mount the 4 hard drives. At this point the hardware end was finished and the rest of the configuration is completed across the network with a html interface. Very cool stuff.

here’s my hardware list:

ATX case $0
celeron 700 cpu $0
256mb ram $0
128mb cf card $0
freenas os $0
ide to cf adapter $11.99
syba pci serial ata host card $31.99
10cm case fan $7.99
sata power adapter cable adapter $2.99 x4
18″ sata data cable $4.99 x2
samsung 3.5″ 1tb sata hd $79.00 x4

all this for a grand total of $393.87 !!!

Chickpea Enchiladas

Chickpea Enchiladas
 
Chickpea Enchiladas
Author:
Recipe type: Entree
Cuisine: Mexican
Ingredients
  • 4 flour tortillas
  • 1 small can enchilada sauce
  • 1 15-ounce can chickpeas, drained and rinsed and boiled for 5 minutes
  • 2 medium carrots julianned
  • 1 tablespoon finely chopped red onion¼ pound ground turkey, tvp, or tofu
  • 2 Cloves garlic minced
  • Zest and juice from 1 lemon
  • Salt / Cumin / Pepper to taste
  • A few glugs of olive oil (go light on the oil)
Instructions
  1. Mix everything but the tortillas and enchilada sauce in a small bowl. Very lightly smash the chickpea mixture with the back of a fork or a potato masher. You’re not looking for a hummus-like puree but something closer to a coarse chop with a few smaller bits to hold it together. Add the glugs of olive oil, mix it lightly. Scoop the mixture into the tortillas and roll. Place in a Pyrex baking pan top with enchilada sauce bake in over till warm (400deg 10minutes)
  2. Serves 2

 

More in the mix


vox practice amp guts


$5 thrift store ukulele


This is proof that if you ask the universe for something, you’ll find it at the thrift store. A $200 airbrush compressor for $14. A DAY AFTER I BOUGHT AN AIRBRUSH! ……..amazing.

maple neck blank (25.5″ scale. 2-3/16″ heel width) for another music project.

My Relic Manifesto

People debate the aesthetic of a relic guitar. Some take offense from an ethical standpoint, battle scars should be earned not purchased. Why pretend to be something your not. There are also those who don’t care for a beat up guitar.

Last year I spend a semester in a class titled “What is Art” and you guessed it, we spent 18 weeks defining and discussing the definition of art. Here’s what I got from the class – two graduate hours I needed for my masters, a bill for $550, an $80 textbook that I’ll never look at again, and a better understanding of the role art play in peoples lives. (I feel like I got ripped off. That’s almost five saga kits). The value of art is personal, when that value is shared by many it can become valuable. So when I think valuable, I think about builders like Callahan and Glendale. I think we can all agree that is artwork with frets . The giggling guy on youtube with an angel grinder and a squire strat has created art, but how many will value it. Once again value is highly personal. If I presented my wife with a blue daisy rock guitar and a butterscotch Glendale tele, she would choose the daisy in a heartbeat, its blue. Its all about value.

Here’s why I value a relic guitar.

I bought a 335 custom shop when I was 19, I cost $1800, my life savings at the time. It was a beautiful and flawless guitar; I was scared to play it for fear of a scratch. I was almost relieved when I sold it two years later. On a shiny guitar a nick in the finish becomes a beacon flashing in my periphery. A relic instrument takes the sting out of a small bump or nick in the finish. I can feel comfortable playing and focus on the music not my proximity to a cymbal stand or a drunk bass player. Reality check here, I should replace cymbal and bass player with laundry basket and wagging dog tail, but you get the picture.

I don’t mind reading fiction. A story doesn’t have to be true to be amazing. Objects, especially guitars, tell a story. A lot of instruments say “I am an exceptional instrument; I was produced by a cnc milling machine capable of maintaining a tolerance of…” I prefer an instrument that says something along the lines of “I was playing in a bar just north of Toledo the night you were born, I broke a string halfway through the second set..”

Ultimately, I just like the patina of old stuff. I live in an old house, I collect antiques. Old things make us think of our history and give the world a little sense of scale.

Ok too much typing I need another guitar to build.

Note To Self

As the guitar part of this project is wrapping up, I wanted to reflect on a few things I’ve learned through the process.

1. Test on scrap. And have scrap to test ON! I should have started a couple of sanded and sealed boards to test finishes and relic techniques before I worked on the body itself.

2. My biggest mistake of the project was allowing water to seep into the edge of the control cavity route and screw holes during my first round of wet sanding. The wood swelled and created a flat spot in the finish. Way too much water, and I let it sit around the edges. I need to make sure I really hit the routes with primer early on. I also learned to re-wet constantly to keep the sandpaper from clogging. I also saw a guy using a 2 litre bottle cap as a sanding block and this worked very well for the edges

3. With the decal process I used too much gold gel ink and mod podge, this added material made it dificult to get a firm flat seal on the headstock. Thin is the way to go.

4. Spray thin coats, Color was fairly forgiving, but the tinted laquer would show even the tiniest overlap or run.

5. I’ve been looking at alot of old guitars and the stereotypical relic guitar wear isn’t that consistant with alot of the old gear I’ve seen. Very few of the late 50s and 60s strats seem to have extensive forearm wear. Alot of edges wear but this seems to be due to a buildup of dents and dings on the rounded edges that allow larger sections to break away.

6. The direct acid etch process on hardware is way too heavy for a “real” relic look. I like the effect, but it’s not really an authentic effect. An indirect method using muratic acid in a closed container looks 100 times better than the results I achived. Took at http://www.relicdeluxe.com/ for some great relic techniques.

7. The more visulazation and planning I do before I start, the fewer mistakes I make.

Toner Transfer

UPDATE: I started this project with the intention of transplanting a pignose practice amp into this case. A whole new world of options has opened up since I started playing with tubes. I’m putting this one on hold until I find the perfect circuit for this cool combo.

Here’s my first attempt at toner transfer. The inkjet paper has several layers that need to soften in water and peel away from the surface leaving only toner and brass. I think I used too much heat and fused a thick plastic layer with the paper on the face of the page, this caused allot of the toner to pull off with the paper. I also might need to let the piece soak longer.

As long as I can keep the detail around the art I should be ok. I can manually retouch the edges with paint. I will try again today.

Faceplate Art

The process for the faceplate etching is complex, and as I was working I decided that I needed to kick the graphic side up a bit. I was inspired by the intaglio printing on a dollar bill and decided to try a vintage scroll type graphic for the art on the amp. Obviously its a breaking from the 1950s look, but who am i kidding? One of my next projects is going to build a tube amp from scratch. This style of graphic really has the right feel for what I have in mind for that project. I’m moving the input jack to the side of the amp for the sake of symmetry, this will also allow me to create another etched brass plate.


This is what the mask looks like, I placed the knobs and lamp for scale. The brass will be etched away in the white areas. The brass will then be primed and painted. Then I’ll sand the surface leaving the paint in the etched areas, a little tarnish and clear coat and it will be done!


This is the image I developed in photoshop.

I tried a toner transfer last night with no success, with more research I found that you need to use a very specific type of inkjet paper. It was on clearance from staples and will be arriving in a couple of days.